Atas Key Tables Returns With Chef Louis Han, And Your Tastebuds Are In For A Treat

Chef Louis Han is back at Atas, and this time, he brings his team and a bigger menu of Korean favourites to KL for a four-month residency.

Atas Key Tables at The Ruma Hotel & Residences is back for its second chapter, and, honestly, we called it: Chef Louis Han of GU:UM Singapore—a modern Korean steakhouse—is the chef returning to the kitchen. Because when a chef leaves diners talking about his food long after the last plate, a return feels only right.

Louis made a brief appearance at Atas last year with a two-day kitchen takeover, winning over Malaysian diners with signature plates such as the Surf & Turf Platter: a generous spread of grilled beef, mutton, chicken, and seafood.

“The response has been beyond our expectations. Many diners have shared that what we serve is not what they would typically see at a Korean BBQ, so they are excited to experience something different and discover another side of Korean cuisine,” says Louis.

This time, however, Louis isn’t making a quick cameo. He has brought his GU:UM team along for a four-month residency at Atas, running from now until the end of November.

The second instalment also takes a different shape. Unlike the first edition, which saw collaborations between visiting chefs such as Chef Masahiko Kawano and Atas’ very own Chef Suhalmi Tasir, Louis and Team GU:UM are taking over the kitchen solo. And judging by the demand for their Korean cooking, Malaysian diners seem quite happy to let them have the stage.

The menu has expanded, too. Dinner kicks off with Yukhwae Jeon, Mulhwae, and the playful KFC (Korean Fried Cauliflower), before moving into the charcoal-grilled centrepieces: Hanwoo Lower Loin, Woodae Galbi Short Rib, and of course, the much-loved Surf & Turf Platter.

Then things get a little more nostalgic. Uncle Lulu’s Fried Rice, GU:UM’s Cold Japchae, Sujebi Mac & Cheese, and Doenjang Jjigae draw from the comforting flavours of everyday Korean dining. Dessert keeps things light with Hotteok, Mandarin Bingsu, and Koguma Mousse.

Through GU:UM, Atas gives Louis room to explore Korean cuisine on his own terms, bringing together charcoal fire, familiar flavours, and a distinctly personal take on Korean cooking.

We caught up with Louis over another memorable meal at Atas to talk about Malaysian diners, his use of local ingredients, and what he hopes guests take away from his food beyond an empty plate.

What did you have to rethink when bringing GU:UM to Kuala Lumpur?

One of the key things we had to rethink was making GU:UM’s Kuala Lumpur offerings Halal, as this is an important consideration for the Malaysian market.

What do you think local diners look for that’s different from diners in Singapore?

Interestingly, we’ve noticed that some of the best sellers and favourites here are quite different from those in Singapore. The vegetarian starter KFC (Korean Fried Cauliflower) has been an undisputed hit. While it is also popular in Singapore, it is usually overshadowed by our beef tartare dish (Yukhwae Jeon). It seems that diners in KL prefer punchier flavours, which has been interesting for us to observe and learn from.

Where do your personal experiences and creativity come into play?

All my dishes are inspired by my personal memories. They shape my creativity and influence the way I develop dishes and come up with new ideas.

Was there a Malaysian ingredient or flavour that immediately caught your attention?

The local seafood and fruits have been particularly interesting to me. There are so many ingredients here that I would like to work with eventually. 

Have you found a way to sneak Malaysian ingredients into your cooking?

Yes, local seafood and jackfruit are currently being used on the menu.

Have you discovered any Malaysian dishes that have become personal favourites?

I had the opportunity to dine at Hing Kee Bakuteh, and it really stood out to me because it’s quite different from the Bak Kut Teh we have in Singapore. It was interesting to experience a different interpretation of a dish that I’m familiar with. I’ve also really enjoyed char kway teow.

Do you think there is a danger of Korean food becoming too polished or predictable outside Korea?

No, I don’t think so. There is still so much more to Korean food that people haven’t discovered yet. Korean cuisine is very diverse, and I think there are many different flavours, ingredients and cooking traditions that can still be explored and shared with diners outside Korea.

What do you want Malaysian diners to understand about Korean cuisine that they might not already know?

I want them to know that Korean food is not always spicy or gochujang-heavy. As mentioned in the previous response, there is a lot more to understand about Korean cuisine. I think there are many sides of Korean food that people may not have encountered yet.

If you could bring one Malaysian ingredient back to GU:UM in Singapore, what would it be and what would you do with it?

I would probably choose jungle garlic, or buah kulim. Korean cuisine uses a lot of garlic, but buah kulim has a very distinctive fragrance and flavour that I find really interesting. I think it could work well in many different seasonings and sauces, and I’d love to explore how I could incorporate it into Korean cuisine.

When the four-month residency ends, what would make you say, “That was worth doing”?

It is difficult to isolate, as the entire experience is memorable. Meeting new diners, working with The Ruma Hotel & Residences, understanding new ingredients, all have been priceless to me. A longer residency like this gives me the opportunity to really observe the market, understand the diners here and see how they respond to our food.

All images are courtesy of The Ruma Hotel and Residences