Fire & Flavour: Chef Louis Han on Redefining Korean Barbecue

Seoul’s Michelin-starred chef Louis Han brought his flame-kissed vision to The RuMa in KL—Palate sat down with him to talk heritage, innovation, and Korean cuisine’s global rise.

At GU:UM, Chef Louis Han brings the heart of Korean barbecue into a modern fine-dining setting, where fire, flavour, and heritage collide. Best known for his work at the Michelin-starred NAE:UM in Singapore, Han’s latest venture reimagines Korea’s most beloved culinary ritual—grilling—without the smoke, fuss, or compromise. On a recent trip to KL, where he staged a pop-up dinner at The RuMa Hotel and Residences, we had the chance to catch up with Chef Louis Han about fire, flavour, and the future of Korean barbecue. And, of course, to get to know him a little better.

Tell us about your path to becoming a chef. Was there a defining moment or influence that shaped your direction?

As a child, I have always had a fascination with creating things. My original career aspiration was as a scientist. However, there was one day I happened to watch a cooking show on television, and I was amazed that the chef was able to create new things with a combination of science and creativity, and from then my dream was fixed to become a chef.

You’ve trained in both Korean and Western kitchens. How has that duality informed your approach to flavour and technique?

My food is rooted in my Korean heritage and the flavours are still distinctly Korean. However, I use Western techniques learned throughout my career to create my own take on dishes, so that the end result is something modern, new, yet with a tad of familiarity to diners.

Fire is central to your cooking. What is it about grilling that resonates with you as a chef and as a storyteller?

The grilling method to cook dishes is very central to Korean cuisine. Whenever there is a social gathering, grilling meats is a fun way to feed everyone while boasting of each one’s ‘secret technique’ to grill the meat. Rather than as a chef, I feel grilling is simply ingrained in me as part of my culture and roots.

What excites you most about the evolving role of Korean cuisine in global fine dining?

Korean cuisine is currently popularised through dishes such as K-BBQ and spicy ramyeon. It has always been my goal however to introduce the lesser-known culinary gems of Korea. I am very proud that globally diners are now more aware of the finer aspects of Korean cuisine through visionary chefs who helm acclaimed Korean fine dining restaurants all around the world.

GU:UM has gained attention for reimagining Korean barbecue. What does it mean to you to lead such a bold concept at this stage of your career?

It is part of my dream to share the various aspects of Korean cuisine with diners. Through GU:UM, I can share a different way of enjoying flavours associated with Korean barbecue, in a more refined steakhouse setting and with Western fusion side dishes.

What’s a dish or ingredient you keep coming back to—something feels like a personal signature?

The most fun ingredient I like to work with is fish. It can be sashimi-grade or a locally bred type, I enjoy exploring each fish’s unique texture, bite and flavour. I think diners also can feel my love for fish. One of our best sellers at GU:UM is the Jeju-style grilled grouper, while at NAE:UM (my fine dining restaurant), our fish courses always get positive feedback.

Who or what inspires you outside the kitchen, creatively or personally?

My mum is my hero. She raised me since young as a single mother. Although she is busy working at the law office on weekdays, on weekends she would still spend time cooking for me and taking care of the household. I nearly broke her heart when I told her I wanted to pursue a culinary career, as it is not really a ‘safe’ path to choose. In order not to worry my mum, I work all the harder and I hope to continue improving so as to make her feel proud.

Looking ahead, what are you most excited about in your journey as a chef?

There are still plenty for me to learn as a chef. I look forward to more opportunities to collaborate in global kitchens such as The RuMa, getting to know different ingredients and different perspectives.

GU:UM has been described as redefining Korean barbecue—what makes it different from the traditional perception of K-BBQ?

Through GU:UM, I can share a different way of enjoying flavours associated with Korean barbecue, in a more refined steakhouse setting and with Western fusion side dishes. Because diners do not have to grill the meats themselves, there is none of the smoky post-dinner scent so everyone can focus on simply enjoying the food.

GU:UM’s dishes feel rooted in tradition but reinterpreted. How do you strike that balance between respecting heritage and pushing boundaries?

To me it comes naturally, because my palate is still very much Korean, but I have also spent much time living abroad. So while every dish I create is still rooted in my Korean heritage, I would always want to add some components which are more global, or inspired by South East Asia, that is my identity as a chef.