Laksa: A Whole Country On A Spoon

Ask five Malaysians what laksa is and you might get five different answers. Here’s why they’re all right.

Laksa is a dish that is ubiquitous here in Malaysia. It is every bit a part of the culinary fabric as the go-to mentions when talking local cuisine—i.e. your nasi lemaks and roti canai. But how do you define laksa? Now, that’s a question for which the answer is not so clear-cut.

You see, laksa is a dish that, much like its enjoyers up and down the country, celebrates diversity and the variety that comes with it. Having said that, you can generally separate it into two main types: curry laksa, a creamy, coconut milk-based soup that’s rich and spicy; and asam laksa, a sour, tamarind-based broth often with a fishy flavour profile.

One of the many great things about laksa is how every state or region across the peninsula proudly holds its own interpretation of what this hearty bowl of noodles should look like. Someone from Penang will have a different conception of laksa to somebody from, say, KL—and yet they can both be right. Speaking of Penang, that’s where we’ll be casting our eye for the first stop of our little laksa look round.

Penang Laksa

When it comes to Penang, these proud islanders favour a bowl of noodles in the asam laksa mould, and theirs is perhaps the most emblematic example of that style. The broth—a make-or-break element in any laksa—is a tamarind-based one, often mixed with mackerel to create a soup of fishy, tangy proportions.

Penangites tend to prefer a thicker rice noodle (known as laksa mee) to pad out their dish. Some characteristic ingredients to look out for include mint leaves and pineapple, as well as a spoonful of shrimp paste to add some extra depth. It’s often topped with a hard-boiled egg for some added protein.

Perak Laksa

Perak laksa is a close cousin of the Penang variety that also uses tamarind and fish, but tends to place more of an emphasis on balancing the sweet and the sour. Much like the Penang variation, they often go for rice noodles—though you’ll sometimes find places that opt for vermicelli or flat rice noodles instead.

Similar in its ingredient makeup, Perak laksa can sometimes lean on the sweeter side, courtesy of the added pineapple or sugar. The fish used is often very fresh, giving Perak laksa a more delicate flavour than most.

Kedah Laksa (Laksa Utara)

Keeping with asam laksa, we venture further north to Kedah, where their rendition—also known as laksa utara—comes in a fish-based broth typically fashioned from either sardines or mackerel. This version tends to be a bit lighter than the aforementioned varieties, with servings often including cucumber, herbs like basil, and a splash of fresh coconut milk.

More delicate than the Penang variety, it’s comparably less zingy but with a richer texture from the additional coconut milk. The milder broth and more muted spices mean it can be considered one of the more “refined” versions of laksa, taking a subtler approach where others opt for a more intense burst of flavour.

Kuala Lumpur Laksa

Shifting our focus over to curry laksa, the first interpretation we’ll be examining hails from right here—the bustling metropolis of Kuala Lumpur. Much like the city itself, the laksa here is of a more cosmopolitan slant, combining the standout elements of other laksas to make for a palatable fusion of flavours.

Rich and creamy, the coconut milk-based soup is spiced up with the addition of ingredients like turmeric, chilli, and lemongrass. KL laksa usually comes with egg noodles, though rice noodles are commonplace as well. It makes for quite the hearty meal—a bowl often including a smorgasbord of accoutrements like shrimp, tofu puffs, fish cakes, and sometimes chicken. Resting atop this bountiful spread will be a sprinkling of fresh herbs, bean sprouts, and hard-boiled eggs.

Melaka (Nyonya) Laksa

Food in Melaka is unlike anywhere else in the country, and their laksa is no exception to that. The broth forms the heart of nyonya laksa, consisting of a blend of coconut milk, spices, and sometimes chicken or shrimp broth. Aromatic and complex, here you’ll find a good balance of spicy, sour, and creamy notes.

The spice mixture used is varied, but common ingredients include dried chillies, turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, and shrimp paste. Candlenuts are also often added to impart a savoury richness to the bowl. The unique herbs and spices prevalent in Peranakan cuisine make their influence known here, setting the laksa in Melaka apart from its contemporaries.

Johor Laksa

No article on laksa is complete without at least a passing mention of Johor laksa. Arguably the state’s defining dish, perhaps the most striking feature of Johor laksa is the use of spaghetti as its noodle of choice.

Its thick, gravy-like broth—made from ground fish, coconut milk, and various herbs and spices—is another one of its most distinctive facets. Rich and creamy, the addition of tamarind adds a tanginess that prevents the dish from becoming too cloying, while ingredients such as Vietnamese coriander, lemongrass, and galangal ensure a complex blend of sweet, spicy, and savoury notes.

There’s a wonderful interplay of texture here as well, with the softness of the spaghetti contrasting delightfully against the crunch of the vegetables, all swimming in a pool of gravy that is luscious, but with bits of graininess scattered throughout.

When it comes to laksa, there’s certainly a lot worth mentioning—and you best believe that there’s plenty more beyond what we’ve spoken about here. Sarawak laksa and Terengganu laksa, to name just two examples, are also formidable dishes in their own right and well worth a detour. But really, if this article were to give each variation the attention it deserves, I’d probably need to slap a cover on this and call it a book.

There’s a lot to say about this dish—and that’s without even mentioning the laksa enjoyed in our neighbouring countries. But at the end of the day, those are just words, and as we all know, words can only paint a picture that’ll never suffice when it comes to food.

So the next time you’re in front of a bowl of laksa, before you attack it with reckless abandon, maybe take the time to pause for a while and savour the experience. Recognise the nuances behind all the little bits and bobs that go into it, and appreciate every bite as a reflection of the people, places, and traditions that make laksa the dish we all know and love. Check out more local delicacies stories here.

Opening image: CC0 Public Domain | PxHere