
In kitchens across Malaysia, sustainability is taking shapethrough thoughtful sourcing, deeper connections to local producers, and a renewed respect for every ingredient.
The planet’s not exactly thriving and while fashion has been busy reinventing itself with eco-conscious fabrics, the dining world has taken a quieter, more grounded route. In Malaysia, sustainability isn’t a headline act in fine dining; it’s stitched into how chefs cook, source, and think.
From rainforest to plate, a new wave of kitchens are building menus around what the land gives, leaning into terroir, tradition, and flavour without making a fuss about it. Unlike in the West, where accolades like the Michelin Green Star formalise the movement, Malaysia’s version shows up in subtler ways: kampung-grown produce, indigenous ingredients, and menus that move with the seasons instead of resisting them.
You can spot the details on your plates: fish skins turned into crisps and wraps instead of being discarded, bones and innards used to make broths with depth, and whole ingredients like mushroom stems are used with care, and very little ends up in the bin.
Here, sustainability looks like root-to-stem cooking and real relationships with farmers and foragers. It’s also about preserving culinary heritage, arguably the country’s most natural form of sustainability. Around KL and the wider Klang Valley, a small but deliberate group of restaurants is leading the charge. No grandstanding, no greenwashing, just thoughtful cooking that respects where everything begins and matters most.

A pioneer in Malaysia’s fine dining scene, Dewakan has long set the tone for what modern Malaysian cuisine can be. Led by Chef Darren Teoh, it holds two Michelin Stars and remains the only restaurant in the country with a Michelin Green Star. “We didn’t start thinking we had to be a ‘sustainable’ restaurant. We just thought that this is the best way for us to be a restaurant,” says Darren.
For Darren, cooking has become a way of making sense of the world around him. At Dewakan, ingredients are clues to a place, a season, and a story in motion. “The biggest misconception is that you need to have a philosophy or sustainability angle. The truth is, before starting any business, it has to be ingrained already,” Darren says.
His principles extend beyond the plate, championing local ecosystems, fairer food systems, and a restaurant culture that constantly questions how things can be done better.
Dewakan’s values run deep: a strong commitment to indigenous and underutilised ingredients like ulam, kulim, and native herbs sourced from across Peninsular Malaysia and Borneo.
Working closely with farmers, foragers, and fishermen, shaping menus that are seasonal and story-driven, Darren explains, “we understood from long ago that sustainability is not about more compost, or zero-waste, but raising the economic cycle of indigenous ingredients.”
Think less farm-to-table, and more forest-tofine dining, with dishes including hot smoked sturgeon from Tanjung Malim in a cold button mangosteen soup with sea grapes; thinly sliced cuttlefish and crab roe in a reduced guava juice dressing; and Adan rice steamed in a mahang leaf served with venison and kerdas. For desserts, expect cacao-less chocolate made with dabai, served with rose fudge and keluak tart shell; and coconut jelly with mulberry.
“The more people see value in [sustainability], whether it’s the vendors or the consumers, the more impact it will have,” Darren posits. Dewakan has been proving that point long before anyone thought to ask.
Website: dewakan.com
IG: @dewakanmy

A newer name on the scene, Akar has quickly made its mark with a Michelin Star under its belt. Helmed by Chef Aidan Low, the restaurant brings a thoughtful Malaysian European perspective to the table. “Sustainability means having the ability to continue what we do meaningfully over the long term. It exists in many forms, some of which I believe should be mandatory across all kitchens, while others are more personal practices shaped by a restaurant’s philosophy,” Aidan points out.
The cooking is ingredientled, drawing from regional produce and ecosystems. A significant part of Akar’s sustainability efforts goes into nurturing talent and building a team that can continue developing its craft over time. “We believe the value of a dining experience should come from the thought, technique, and care behind it, rather than simply the cost of the ingredients being served,” explains Aidan.
Expect flavours built around bambangan, bunga kantan, and jungle honey, with a clear effort to minimise waste. Menus shift with availability, keeping things dynamic without losing focus. “When you work with the lives of animals, plants, and the resources provided by nature, there should be an instinctive responsibility to waste as little as possible and maximise what is available on hand,” Aidan notes.
Dishes to look out for include steamed abalone with fried mung bean noodles and mulberry sauce, rose and coconut scallop topped with edible blossoms, and a bold prawn cake layered with tempoyak, sea grapes, and kaffir lime. “Our sustainability goals and our definition of luxury go hand-in-hand. Both are rooted in creating something meaningful, enduring, and uniquely our own,” Aidan shares.
For Aidan, sustainability is not a trend, and should never be. “Many of the things we associate with sustainability today should simply be fundamental skills and responsibilities of being a cook. Respecting ingredients, minimising waste, and making thoughtful decisions should be part of the craft itself,” he says.

One of the most talked-about openings in recent years, Terra Dining has earned its Michelin Star with a clear point of view. Chef-owner Chong Yu Cheng brings together Malaysian ingredients and French cooking techniques, creating dishes that feel both rooted and refined.
“One of the major pet peeves I have with kitchens is wasted energy when it comes to making stocks and sauces,” says Yu Cheng.
He points out that there are simple ways to improve collagen extraction from flesh and bones, such as using a pressure cooker or acidifying the cooking liquid beforehand. “They may not seem like much, but these simple changes can cut cooking time by hours, saving precious energy in the process,” Yu Cheng points out.
Local sourcing is central, from forest bamboo to native herbs and aromatics. The kitchen keeps waste to a minimum—fish bones enrich broths, scraps are repurposed where possible—and works closely with farmers to reduce its footprint.
“We also try to cut down the amount of waste product by finding creative uses for trimmings. Our duck liver sausage and duckkwa are ways to use up excess duck legs; our lemongrass vinegar was born out of my frustration over not being able to use the tops in cooking; the herbs that are oversized or trimmed away are turned into herb oils which elevate the dishes. All these initiatives
have not only improved the dishes but also expanded our horizons in terms of the possibilities that these ingredients afford us,” adds Yu Cheng.
Highlights from the menu include grilled slipper lobster with asam laksa bisque, aged duck breast with Teochew-style jus, and a carrot halwa tart paired with thosai ice cream.
Yu Cheng believes that as more Malaysian diners recognise local ingredients as the future of local cuisine, they will embrace the same mindset in their own cooking. In turn, that creates demand for higher-quality produce and encourages suppliers to raise their standards.
Website: terra.com
IG: @terradining.kl

A modern French restaurant with a strong sustainability ethos, Entier is best known for its nose-to-tail philosophy. Under the direction of Executive Chef Romain Fabre, the kitchen uses every ingredient, from skin to bone, without compromising finesse. “Some unexpected parts can deliver flavours that people couldn’t imagine,” says Romain.
He believes sustainability begins with simple, everyday actions, noting that ignoring its importance would be irresponsible. In his view, uxury dining and environmental consciousness can comfortably coexist. “We focus on quality and guest experience while reducing waste, using resources responsibly, and supporting sustainable practices without compromising our standards,” he says.
These efforts have improved efficiency and created a more sustainable kitchen while maintaining the level of excellence guests expect. There is also a growing emphasis on premium local produce, adding a clear Malaysian layer to Entier’s French foundation.
“At Entier, my main goal is to use as many ingredients from Malaysia as possible to reduce the environmental impact of imports. We also focus on reducing food waste through careful portion control, making full use of ingredients, and monitoring inventory closely,” says Romain. “We prioritise seasonal ingredients whenever possible and encourage strict recycling and proper waste segregation.”
The proof, as always, is on the plate. Guests can experience how responsible cooking and refined dining can seamlessly coexist through Romain’s latest lunch tasting menu. Appetisers such as oyster with caviar lead into mains including uni pasta, Irish duck breast and wagyu with foie gras, while lunch sets offer dishes like veal blanquette, beef bavette and lobster pasta. For a limited time, the lunch comes with a complimentary glass of red, white, or rosé wine, a simple pairing to complete the experience.
Rooted in intention and ingredient, Entier makes a persuasive case that the most indulgent meal you’ll have this season can also be one of the most responsible. In a dining landscape still finding its footing between pleasure and purpose, that is no small thing.
Website: entier.com
IG: @entierfrenchdining

For those who like their meals with a side of storytelling, Beta delivers. Helmed by Chef Raymond Tham, the restaurant explores Malaysian terroir through tasting menus that spotlight different states and regions. There’s a strong focus on provenance, with ingredients sourced from local producers and artisans, while each course offers a deeper look into the country’s diverse culinary landscape.
“Sustainability is about responsibility and respect for the ingredients, the producers, the environment, and the people. As chefs, we have a duty to make thoughtful choices about what we source, how we use it, and how much we waste,” Raymond says.
The result is a menu that feels personal and expansive, rooted in culture as much as technique. Highlights include abalone heirloom rice with caviar, Miyazaki wagyu beef striploin, prawn glazed with homemade fermented rice lees and charred fern.
At Beta, sustainability is part of the team’s daily decision-making. “We celebrate Malaysia’s diverse produce and work closely with local farmers whenever possible, and strive to maximise the value of every ingredient that enters our kitchen,” Raymond notes.
Diners come to Beta expecting an exceptional experience, and sustainability challenges the team to be even more creative in delivering it. By showcasing seasonal Malaysian ingredients, reducing unnecessary imports, and finding inventive ways to use every part of an ingredient, the team delivers a dining experience that is both refined and responsible.
“Over the years, we have designed menus around seasonality and reduced food waste through better planning and whole ingredient utilisation,” Raymond shares. He added that trimmings and by-products that might traditionally be discarded are often transformed into stocks, ferments, condiments, or garnishes.
These practices have encouraged greater creativity within the team, strengthened relationships with local producers, and helped the restaurant create dishes that are uniquely Malaysian. “Most importantly, we have shown that sustainability and culinary excellence can work hand in hand rather than being opposing goals,” says Raymond.
Malaysians love to eat, it’s practically a national identity. But as conversations around the environment and food systems grow louder, where we dine starts to matter just as much as what’s on the plate. Luckily, these restaurants make it easy: good food, thoughtful sourcing, and a little less guilt with every bite.
Opening image: Courtesy of Dewakan






