Salt bread: The pastry sweeping KL’s cafe scene

What do you get when you cross a croissant and brioche? Japan solved the equation and gave us salt bread.

When eating a croissant requires a vacuum to clean up the messy crumbs, and other bready treats lack that same satisfying crunch, salt bread finds itself in the Goldilocks zone, with a perfectly golden crust at that. It presents itself as an oblong cousin of the classic French pastry, characterised by a pillowy, butter-soaked centre that pools at the bottom to form a caramelised base, finished with a garnish of salt flakes or sesame seeds.

The flavour is undeniably indulgent, enshrouded in that cozy bakery aroma. Paired with a coffee, getting through your 3PM slump is going to look like a 3PM snooze. With such a ubiquitous presence, cafe-hoppers are sure to wonder where this savoury craze came from. Not that anyone’s complaining, of course. 

Tracing back its salty origins

Contrary to popular belief, while South Koreans certainly took the creation to greater heights, its country of origin is actually Japan. Also known as shiopan, it was somewhere in Ehime prefecture that Pain Maison bakery drew inspiration from European baking techniques to explore the possibilities of salt. In some ways, shiopan is an ode to all its baked predecessors. Similar iterations of salted breads have existed across the world: pandesal from the Phillipines, pretzels from Germany, even focaccia from Italy. Yet, it’s Japanese salt bread that reigns king in this domain.

As mentioned, many casual salt bread enjoyers mistakenly believe South Korea to be its creator. However, you’ve got to give credit where credit is due. South Korea’s notoriously successful cafe culture boosted the popularity of salt bread, or sogeum-ppang, turning it into the viral sensation it is today. Since 2021, many culinary liberties have been taken to push the limits of what salt bread could really be. Cafes maintained its signature plush inside and salty finish, but did not skim on new flavours and toppings. 

Here, a baker’s imagination is the limit. Like it extra savoury? Try a saucy garlic-butter and parsley flavour stuffed with cream cheese. Maybe something sweeter? How about a jam-filled inside dusted with powdered sugar for a doughnut adjacent dessert? Something in between? Corn-infused cream cheese piped into the centre of your salt bread might be for you. Essentially, salt bread is an edible canvas fit for mouthwatering customisations. 

The versatility of salt bread might be the key to its success. Where most pastries are confined to being either salty or sweet, salt bread can do it all. It can do everything, yet it is also perfect in its humble, plain form. Although, describing it as plain feels unsuitable. It is anything but. Its simplicity emphasises the complexity in its technique and the depth of its ingredients. It feels refined, yet unpretentious. As a result, it’s managed to capture the tastebuds of so many. 

Salt bread stops in KL

If you were worried you’d have to book a ticket to Korea or Japan just to get a taste yourself, fret not. Our local bakeries in KL never fall behind on the latest culinary trends. Here are some places serving up top tier salt bread.

Doña Bakehouse

With locations in KL and Johor, Dona Bakehouse are spreading the salt bread agenda. They specialise in a simple sea-salted flavour that blends perfectly with the rich butteriness. With a beautiful sesame-crusted bottom, this version of salt bread is fluffy between layers, the ideal start to your morning. 

Website: donabakehouse.com

Instagram: @doñabakehouse

ADOUGH

Despite being known more for their sourdough, salt bread still managed to find its way onto the menu. Their special honey butter shiopan is sweeter variant of the original. Expect this honeyed version to carry the same savoury touch and that golden exterior. 

Instagram: @a_dough_

Universal Bakehouse

At Universal Bakehouse, on a regular weekday you’ll be able to grab a plain shiopan. Familiar and still perfectly baked. On the weekends, however, exclusive flavours are on display. From the aroma of truffle shiopan to an umami seaweed shiopan, you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Website: universalbakehouse.my

Instagram: @universal_bakehouse

Grumpy Bagels

At Grumpy Bagels, everything gets the bagel transformation, even salt bread. Here, your classic salt bread gets a circular makeover. You get the denseness of a bagel packed with the melted butter encased in the dough. It’s then baked and boiled to perfection. What’s left is a savoury union of the trendiest treats.

Instagram: @grumpybagels

Opening image: DING|Pexels